Everything you need to install flush-mount glass.

Inspect the crate carefully. Look for crushed corners, punctures, fork holes, water damage, and any signs of rough handling. If anything looks off, photograph it before opening, and note "received damaged, subject to inspection" on the BOL before signing.

Full receiving walkthrough: how to receive and inspect your shipment.

Stop. Do not unpack further. Take photos of the damage in place, the crate, and the packaging. Then call us at (480) 748-2000 or text the shop. The faster we hear about it, the faster we can file the freight claim and get a replacement moving.

Yes. Sometimes the factory misses a frit band stamping pass. If your glass arrived without a frit band, call us and we will arrange a replacement. The frit band is essential for primer adhesion and UV protection of the urethane bond.

Inspect immediately and report any concerns within 60 days of delivery. Test fit within that window to identify any issues. The longer you wait, the harder it is to determine whether damage happened in transit, in storage, or during install.

Store the glass on edge (never flat) in a temperature-stable, dry environment, leaning at a slight angle against padded supports. Avoid direct sun, which can cause uneven thermal stress, and keep it away from areas where it could be bumped or knocked over.

An NGA or AGRSS certified glass installer. NGA certification is the long-standing industry gold standard. Certified techs are trained on current safety standards, proper urethane work, and bonding requirements that protect you in a collision. Ask the shop about warranty coverage on their work as well.

Yes. Use a sander or die grinder to remove all clips on the inside of the channel. They are not needed for flush-mount glass and can interfere with proper seating, or worse, chip the new glass during install.

Lay short sections of one-inch-wide, 3/8" fuel line (or similar) along the channel to simulate urethane thickness. Set the glass on top, then check for even gap, proper sit height, and any defects. The test fit reveals where minor body work may be needed before final bonding.

Detailed photos of the test-fit process are in the Tips & Tricks PDF above.

Soap, water, and a soft cloth. Do not use household glass cleaner on the bonding area. Glass cleaner residue can react with urethane primer and prevent a proper bond. Some installers prefer a glass-etching prep solution for an even tighter bond.

No. Skipping the frit-band primer puts your windshield at serious risk of slipping loose. The primer is what bonds the urethane to the glass. Apply a thin coat within the frit band line, let it dry, and do not touch it. Skin oils prevent the urethane from sticking.

Either works. We have seen both approaches done well. Use a V-shaped nozzle for a consistent bead. On older vehicles, you may need a thicker bead in some areas to bring the glass even with the roof line.

Sometimes. Fesler glass is engineered and manufactured by Pilkington to modern OEM tolerances, the same standard as glass on new vehicles sold today. On a properly prepared body it drops in. But classic cars are 50 to 70 years old, and most have lived a life: accidents, racing, repaints, and decades of subtle sheet-metal shifts. The glass is the constant. Your car's opening is the variable. Minor adjustment or light body work is occasionally part of a real classic build. The best time to install flush-mount glass is during the bodywork phase, not after final paint.

Refer to your urethane manufacturer's drying instructions for the official figures. We recommend leaving the vehicle untouched overnight before driving, and longer if temperatures are cool or humidity is low. Safe-drive-away time depends on the specific urethane.

Place a section of 3/8" fuel line at the bottom of the glass on the cowl. This keeps the glass from sliding down and maintains proper spacing while the urethane sets. For high or low spots, use a sandbag to gently push the glass down to match the roof line.

No, it is not required for sealing. The urethane bond does the sealing work. We recommend filling the gap with black weatherproof silicone (not urethane) for a clean look and to prevent the gap from acting like a debris-collecting rain gutter. Some customers add 16mm universal molding instead.

You can, but we recommend against it. Urethane is much harder to clean off if it cures unevenly or if you ever need to remove it. Black weatherproof silicone (the kind you can buy at any hardware store) is far easier to work with and looks just as clean.

Wait at least 24 hours, ideally 48, before washing or exposing the urethane to high-pressure water. Avoid pressure-washing the glass perimeter for the first week to give the bond time to fully set.

Almost always not. Low spots can be raised by adding a spacer or applying more urethane in those areas. This is normal on classic vehicles where openings have shifted over decades of use. Our glass is engineered and manufactured by Pilkington to OEM tolerances. The glass is consistent. Your car's opening is the variable. The Tips & Tricks PDF on this page has photo examples of what this looks like and how to address it.

Almost always not a defect. When the glass sits high, it can look mis-shaped or wavy from certain angles. Once the area is gently pushed down to be even with the roof line (using less urethane and more sandbag weight), the wavy look disappears. This is fixable, not a warranty issue.

Usually not. Irregular gap is a classic sign that the body opening has moved over time and needs minor work to seat the glass evenly. Our glass is built by Pilkington to modern OEM tolerances. The glass dimensions are consistent across kits. The opening on a 50 to 70 year old car is the variable. If your project requires spot-on, factory-perfect gap measurements, plan for some body work, ideally during the body and paint stage rather than after final paint.

Verified defects include:

• Delamination of the frit band (the black ceramic border peeling or bubbling)
• Chips in the glass
• Missing frit band entirely (factory stamping miss)
• True warpage (not to be confused with slight unevenness that can be addressed during install)

Photo examples of each are in the Tips & Tricks PDF on this page. If you see one of these, call us at (480) 748-2000.

Most "windshield" leaks on classics are actually cowl leaks. Before assuming the glass is at fault, run our quick diagnostic tests in Wet Carpet? Windshield Leak vs Cowl Leak. Resealing the windshield when the cowl is the issue wastes money and does not fix the leak.

Call us at (480) 748-2000 or text the shop. Have your order number ready and clear photos of the defect, including the surrounding area for context. We will walk you through next steps and get a replacement out as quickly as possible.